Doboku Gakkai Ronbunshu
Online ISSN : 1882-7187
Print ISSN : 0289-7806
ISSN-L : 0289-7806
Papers (In Japanese)
MODELING SURFACE ROLLERS AND UNDERTOW VELOCITY PROFILES
Yoshimitsu TAJIMAOle Secher MADSEN
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2005 Volume 2005 Issue 803 Pages 803_133-803_144

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Abstract
This paper presents a theoretical model for prediction of undertow velocity profiles in the surf zone due to near-normally incident waves. The waves may be periodic or narrow-banded random waves, and the beach may be plane or barred. Both wave and surface roller models are based on simple energy balance equations. The undertow model consists of two-layer 2DH momentum equations, integrated above the wave trough level and over the entire depth. Coupled with a simple turbulent eddy viscosity model, analytical solutions are obtained for the vertical mean shear current profiles. Model predictions show excellent agreement with experimental observations which were not used in the model's development.
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© 2005 by Japan Society of Civil Engineers
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